Our Guide to Ireland

A Full Route & Some Simple Tips

This week on One Slice at a Time, we’re giving a full, honest look at Ireland. We break down the route we use for our own clients, and share the stops that stand out.

Start in Dublin… but don’t stay yet

We both plan Ireland the same way: land in Dublin, pick up the car, and head west. Do Dublin at the end when you’re already close to the airport.
No wasted time. No backtracking.

The Ring of Kerry: slow, steady, and worth two days

The Ring of Kerry works best when you give it space. Two days is ideal.
A few simple rules help:

  • Start early

  • Go clockwise

  • Expect tight roads and cliff edges

  • Give yourself time for pull-offs

Where to stay:
Kenmare the first night, then loop through the ring and stop in Portmagee before swinging back toward Killarney.

If you like films:
Skellig Michael sits right off the coast and is where Luke Skywalker hid out. If the seas allow, you can visit by boat.

The quiet cliffs that beat the crowds

Most folks go straight to the Cliffs of Moher. They’re great, but there’s a small cliff line near Portmagee that gives you clear views with far fewer people. On a clear day it hits just as hard.

A rare thing happened when Ryan visited:
He saw a full rainbow from end to end. The whole curve. That doesn’t happen often.

The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher

On the drive north, the Burren feels like you’ve landed on another planet — rock, wide views, and long silence.

Then there’s the Cliffs of Moher. You can stay near the visitor center, or you can drive to quieter pull-offs and take a short walk to the edge.
If the water isn’t rough, the boat trips below the cliffs are steady and give you a good sense of scale.

Doolin: the small town with the loudest music

Doolin is tiny and known for live music.
Every trip, Ryan ends up at Gus O’Connor’s Pub more times than he’d admit. Pints, music, warm food, and a room full of people who never seem ready to go home.

You can also take ferries from here to the Aran Islands. The slower pace there feels like stepping back in time.

Galway: food, shops, and a killer pizza stop

Galway is a quick switch back to busy streets, music on every corner, and late nights.
Stay in Eyre Square if you can. The Hardiman is a classic spot with a piano in the lobby and small rooms that work fine for a short stay.

If you love food:
Do not skip Dough Bros. Yes, it’s pizza in Ireland. Yes, it’s that good.

Cork, Kinsale, and Cobh

Cork is packed with food stalls and local flavors.
Right outside town, whiskey lovers can tour the Jameson Middleton distillery, which is totally different from the Dublin one.

From there, head south toward Kinsale or Cobh.
Kinsale has bold seafood and a ghost tour that leans into the fun.
Cobh is known for its link to the Titanic and has solid walking tours.

End in Dublin for the smoothest flight home

Here’s the part most folks don’t know:
If you’re flying back to the U.S. from Dublin, you clear customs in Dublin before boarding. When you land at home, you walk straight out like you took a domestic flight.

Because of that, you need at least three hours at the airport.

While in Dublin, don’t skip:

  • Trinity College and the Book of Kells

  • St. Patrick’s Cathedral

  • Temple Bar

  • The Guinness Storehouse (the view from the top floor bar alone is worth it)

Simple ways to do this trip

You can tackle Ireland four ways:

  • A bus tour

  • A private driver

  • Small groups

  • Driving yourself

Most visitors do fine behind the wheel, but remember: other side of the car, other side of the road.

Want help planning Ireland?

This is one of the trips we plan all the time.
If you want someone to set up the route, book the towns, handle the details, and talk through the pace, reach out anytime.

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Travel Destinations We’d Do Again… and the Ones We Wouldn’t